Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Watch Review
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Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Watch Review |
The Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT
Inspired by a vintage watch used by the Italian navy, features the brand’s
P.9001 in-house movement. WatchTime put both wristwatch and caliber to the test
in this feature from the WatchTime archives.
Caliber family P.9000, which debuted in
2009, is the second line of in-house movements developed by Panerai. Though
their power reserve is shorter (three rather than eight days), these offer the
convenience of automatic winding at significantly less expense than their
predecessors in the P.2000 family. Caliber P.2003, in fact, holds a full 10
days’ worth of power, but the watch that it powers, the Panerai Luminor 1950 10
Days GMT, is nearly twice as expensive as the one we test here, the Luminor
1950 3 Days GMT.
Despite its lower price tag, the 3 Days GMT
provides almost everything the 10 Days offers: a second time zone (but without
a day-night display for the 12-hour hand), a power-reserve display (but positioned
on the back and nonlinear) and a return-to-zero mechanism for the seconds hand,
which is triggered when you extract the crown into the hand-setting position.
Along with Caliber P.9001, which powers the watch in this test, the family
includes the basic P.9000 (with no second time zone or power-reserve display)
and the P.9002 (with power-reserve display on the front).
Typical characteristics of this Swiss-made
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Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Watch Review |
Italian-designed brand include a satin-finished and pillow-shaped case with a
polished bezel, a protective stirrup with a lever used to press the crown
firmly into the case, and a distinctively styled dial with large Arabic
numerals and hour indices. The 3 Days GMT watch is a faithful interpretation of
the original Panerai Luminor model, which debuted in 1950 as a watch for
Italian Navy divers. but it isn’t essentially different from other Panerai
watches. The unmistakable family resemblance of its products is both a strength
and a weakness of this brand: if you aren’t fond of this one’s design, you
probably won’t find any other Panerai model to suit you. On the other hand,
every Panerai watch is immediately recognizable to the brand’s many fans. And
judging by the staying power of Panerai’s retro design, the Luminor 3 Days will
probably be just as appealing to collectors 10 years from now – which cannot be
said about every contemporary watch.
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Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Watch Review |
Furthermore, the 3 Days GMT does boast
several details that distinguish it from other Panerai watches. The color of
the lettering on the date disk isn’t pure white, but slightly beige. Also, we
were pleased to note that the 3 Days makes do without the magnifying lens found
above the date displays of some other Panerai watches. Though this model has a
variety of functions, its dial doesn’t look cluttered: the hand for the second
time zone can be concealed under the hour hand for the local time, and the
power-reserve display is positioned out of sight on the back. The crystals
above the dials in other members of this collection are highly domed, but this
one is only slightly curved, a difference that we appreciated.
The sandwich-style dial, another Panerai
trademark, is as beautiful as ever, with an underlying layer of glow-in-the-dark
Super-LumiNova topped by an opaque dial pierced with apertures for the numerals
and indices that mark the hours. This gives the watch greater depth, keeps it
faithful to its historic predecessors, and also explains the open, “stencil”
design of the digits 6 and 9. This type of architecture guarantees that the
numerals and indices glow uncommonly bright, which makes this watch very
legible in the dark. The hour hand for the second time zone is coated with
luminous material, as are the small seconds hand and its four accompanying
indices. The time is also easy to read in daylight, though the lack of a
minutes circle on the dial’s periphery means it cannot always be read as
precisely as one might wish. The power-reserve display on the movement side uses
a disk that rotates under a window; its color changes from black to red shortly
before the energy is exhausted.
Careful scrutiny uncovered a few specks of
dust on the hands, which were stamped from rather thin stock, which causes them
to bend toward the polished eyelet at the center of the dial. There’s also an
obvious break in the satin finishing above the lugs, which accept the
crosspiece that holds the strap.
In all other respects, however, the case is
excellently crafted
It also scores points for its quick-change system for the
strap lugs. A special tool, delivered with the watch, can be used to press a
button on the underside of each lug, making it easy to push out the crosspiece,
remove the leather strap and install the alternate rubber one that is also
included.
The broad, pre-mounted, machine-stitched
crocodile-skin strap with cut edges is very well-made, as is the pronged
buckle, which brings to mind an old-fashioned bottle opener. Some sharp edges
become evident when you put it under a loupe, but you don’t notice them once
the watch is fastened to your wrist.
All in all, and despite its large
44-millimeter diameter, the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT is quite
comfortable to wear, although the lugs don’t curve very far downward, which
gives this big watch a tendency to slide back and forth along the wrist.
Fortunately, our concerns that the crown protector might poke uncomfortably
into the back of the wrist were unfounded.
The crown protector’s hinged lever also
does not hinder the operation of the watch. It can be quickly opened, and it is
easy to turn the large, easy-to-grasp crown while the watch is strapped to the
wrist, making all the setting functions user-friendly. The mainspring can be
manually wound when the crown is pulled out to its first extracted position;
the hour hand for the local time can be reset in hourly increments when the
crown is in its second position — a very practical feature for those who
frequently travel outside their home time zone. The date display jumps forward
or backward accordingly, so readjusting it is easy and quick, despite the
absence of a genuine quick-adjustment mechanism.
When you pull the crown all the way out to its third position
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Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Watch Review |
The seconds hand on the subdial at 9 o’clock will race back
to zero, the balance will stop oscillating, and the hours and minutes can be
reset in the usual way. Afterward, you can simply swing the protective lever
over the crown and use it to press it back into its secured position. Its
return triggers the seconds hand to resume moving. Synchronizing this watch
with an audible time signal or a radio-controlled clock is very easy thanks to
the zero-return mechanism for the seconds hand, also used by A. Lange &
Söhne and found on vintage Panerai watches. Like the return-to-zero function
for the elapsed-time hands of a chronograph, it is triggered by a lever inside
the movement, acting on a return-to-zero heart mounted on the staff of the
seconds hand.
Caliber P.9001 is visible through a pane of
sapphire in the caseback. Though the rotor is skeletonized, much of the
movement’s inner workings are hidden because a large plate covers the entire
mechanism except for the balance and its cock. A closer look reveals a
sickle-shaped window for the escape wheel and another window through which one
can see the pawl of the automatic winding mechanism. The rear view also
includes the power-reserve display: a red field comes into view through the
aperture whenever the energy supply shrinks to a critical level. The rotor,
plate and balance cock are each decorated with a wave pattern. Combined with
the blue filling of the engraved lettering, it creates an attractively
technical look that matches this watch’s overall styling well. The polished
heads of the silvery screws also look good, as do some of the other screws,
which have been thermally blued. Some of the edges are beveled, others both
beveled and polished: these look very nice, although they’re a bit narrow. The
cover plate for the balance, which has been stamped from sheet metal and hasn’t
been meticulously polished, is somewhat less impressive.
The bidirectionally winding rotor uses
pawls and runs over low-wear ceramic ball bearings. It supplies power to the
barrels, which (as the watch’s name indicates) amass enough energy to keep the
watch running for 72 hours. A total of 227 components — including 29 jewels for
ideal reduction of friction — comprise the movement. Four screws along the rim
provide the solution to the problem of finely adjusting the balance without the
need for an index tail. Until a few years ago, this detail was reserved for
watches in the upper echelons of haute horlogerie.
Our rate test revealed that Panerai has
done a good job of finely adjusting the movement. Though it gained eight
seconds on the wrist, its average gain on the timing machine was a mere 3.7
seconds. The greatest deviation among the various positions (five seconds) is
quite respectable, too. The amplitude remained high in all positions.
For a watch with a manufacture movement,
the price is reasonable, only moderately
more expensive than the earlier models that contained ETA movements. Few
watches with in-house movements in this price range offer a comparable range of
functions.
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