Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch Review
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| Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch Review |
Is Cartier‘s lately released dive watch, the Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver, not only a fairly face? We searched for to discover within this test feature in the WatchTime archives. Scroll lower to see the entire review, with original photos by Robert Atkinson.
Nearly now, a number of you're thinking “A Cartier dive watch? Great, I’ll put on it with my neoprene tuxedo.” If something of that nature entered the mind, continue reading, and become educated. The Worldwide Organization for Standards, or ISO, established fact to look at enthusiasts. Nearly everybody knows the special moment figures -4 to 6. They are members of ISO 3159 governing mechanical wrist chronometers. ISO 1413 sets standards for shock-resistant watches, and ISO 764 covers antimagnetic watches. In addition, there's an ISO standard for watches for diving: number 6425. We required an in-depth view it in the following paragraphs. Our test watch meets this ISO standard. Many so-known as watches for diving don't.
Watches for diving are based on their cases, so this is where we shall start. Aesthetically, the situation is clearly part of the Calibre de Cartier family. At 10.92 mm thick within our calipers (and 11 mm formally), the Calibre Diver is slim. When making the timepiece, Cartier prioritized a svelte profile. At 111 grams, it is also light, but because we’ll see, it’s no lightweight. Its surfaces put on an excellent brushed finish. A elegant bevel across the outer edges from the lugs catches the sunshine. Between your lugs, the top situation band angles to satisfy the bracelet’s finish pieces. On the test watch, this angled lip covers the space between your strap and also the situation. This provides the timepiece a finished look, also it produces the impression the strap is given to curved spring bars, which it's not. The lugs are steeply curved and, combined with rubber strap, result in the Calibre Diver very comfortable to put on. The screws in the finish of every lug help secure the bracelet. Whenever a strap is equipped, the screws play only an attractive role. The oversize crown guard teams track of the bezel to help make the watch put on bigger than its specs indicate. The situation is formally listed at 42 mm across. At 43.8 mm, the bezel is bigger compared to situation, which makes it simpler to grip. Add some crown guard, and also the diameter is simply over 45 mm.
The graceful, seven-sided crown screws lower, adding towards the 300-meter water-resistance rating. The crown’s polished finish and distinctive dark blue synthetic spinel provide the see a dressy attitude. Some might have the blue jewel isn't suitable for a dive watch, but bear in mind that the Cartier tool will probably be a stylish tool.
The solid caseback takes place in position with eight small screws. As we’ll discuss below, to individuals knowledgable, the straightforward “diver’s watch” inscription speaks volumes. The situation is capped by a watch-catching, compliment-inducing bezel. It’s black ADLC (amorphous gemstone-like carbon) over steel or rose gold, with respect to the model. The deep gloss provides the see a top-quality look. The advantage from the bezel is extremely polished, and crenelated for improved grip. The unidirectional bezel adjusts in 30-second increments (120 clicks per rotation).
A rather domed azure very without any nonreflective coating protects a dial carried out in the Calibre de Cartier style. An oversize “XII” dominates, and does nearly as much to recognize the maker because the brand directly beneath it. The “California” style carries over, with Roman numerals on the top and broad stick markers below. The outer area of the dial, underneath the Romans, is snailed. The Roman “X” incorporates Cartier’s “secret signature” anti-counterfeiting feature: the Cartier name in microprint within the numeral’s crosspiece.
When viewing two-digit dates within the curved aperture, it made an appearance to the eyes the triangular indicator protruded slightly in to the left digit, although the date remains legible. The sword-formed hands are members of the Calibre de Cartier aesthetic, plus they function very well, though some might regard them as too dainty for any dive watch. At nighttime, the 3 hands glow, along with the little-seconds chapter ring. The little, square dots marking the hrs will also be given Super-LumiNova, although the oversize “XII” may be the sole radiant Roman. Around the bezel, just the inverted triangular glows, therefore the other bezel markings aren't visible at nighttime. Within our test, the Super-LumiNova glowed brightly for around 1 hour. After two hrs, the luminous output had declined to the stage it had become visible simply to eyes adjusted towards the dark. Although the luminous output delivered rapidly, luminous elements continued to be legible in excess of 18 hrs. Should you look at your watch in the center of the night time, you'll be able to see it.
The Strap
The strap is soft rubber, and also at 120 mm by 74 mm, it'll fit more than a wetsuit only when your wrists are small. The strap is 23.5 mm wide in the lugs, restricting precise-fitting aftermarket options. The pin buckle is solid and engaging. Her same fine brushed finish because the situation, using the Cartier name engraved around the frame.
Top of the, periphery from the frame displays an excellent, polished bevel. Behind the solid caseback is Cartier’s in-house automatic Caliber 1904 MC, which debuted this year within the original Calibre de Cartier. This movement was created by Cartier’s resident horological mastermind, Carole Forestier-Kasapi, and also the architecture emphasizes chronometric stability. The dual, series-coupled barrels don't boost the power reserve, that is 48 hrs. Rather, they lessen the power flow because the mainsprings wind lower. Cartier claims this design also improves movement durability, because the barrels generate less friction-inducing pressure. The movement runs in 27 jewels at 4 Hz, or 28,800 vph.
A bidirectional rotor installed on ceramic bearings winds the mainsprings. The bearings need no lube while increasing durability. Cartier utilizes a V-formed pawl instead of a typical reverser to improve winding efficiency and improve shock resistance. The rotor and automatic winding bridge are carried out with Geneva stripes, as the mainplate wears perlage, or circular graining. The graceful Glucydur balance wheel, flat Nivarox balance spring, and Etachron fine adjustment system regulate the discharge of one's.
Given Cartier’s goal for that twin mainspring barrels, we tested the Calibre Diver around the Witschi machine at full wind and again after 24 hrs, or midway with the power reserve. Our test watch seems to possess been controlled to operate consistently fast. Fully wound, the Calibre Diver averaged 7.1 seconds each day in six positions, with every position in positive territory. After 24 hrs, that figure elevated to 9.2 seconds. The finest deviation of rate at full wind was 5.1 seconds ( 4.8 seconds crown left and 9.9 seconds dial lower). After 24 hrs, that figure improved to 4.9 seconds ( 7.5 seconds crown up, 12.4 seconds crown lower). The Calibre Diver performed far better in tangible existence, running 2 seconds over 24 hrs around the wrist. The entire timing results come in the Specs box. The majority of our tests finish at this time, but because noted, our test watch meets the ISO-6425 needs, and since many watches for diving don't, we’ll discuss what which means.
ISO 6425 sets out physical needs for watches for diving, for example water proofing to some given depth, also it defines specific tests to guarantee the needs are met. The physical needs for mechanical, analog watches for diving incorporate a device to pre-select some time as high as an hour (often a rotating bezel), legibility at nighttime, a sign the watch is running (usually pleased with a luminous seconds hands), salt-water proofing, potential to deal with exterior forces, reliability under water, potential to deal with magnetism (ISO 764) and shocks (ISO 1413), and potential to deal with thermal shocks (rapid alterations in temperature of water). One of the tests typed in ISO 6425, the most important may be the requirement that each watch should be tested to 125 percent of their rated depth. This is actually the so-known as “overpressure” test. This “test every watch” requirement is a lot more demanding than that put down in ISO 2281, the conventional for watches which are just “water resistant.” That standard requires testing production samples, its not all watch. In case your watch meets ISO 6425, you can be certain it had been tested to 125 percent of their rated depth before departing the factory. If it doesn't meet ISO 6425, you might be putting on an untested watch.
Nearly now, a number of you're thinking “A Cartier dive watch? Great, I’ll put on it with my neoprene tuxedo.” If something of that nature entered the mind, continue reading, and become educated. The Worldwide Organization for Standards, or ISO, established fact to look at enthusiasts. Nearly everybody knows the special moment figures -4 to 6. They are members of ISO 3159 governing mechanical wrist chronometers. ISO 1413 sets standards for shock-resistant watches, and ISO 764 covers antimagnetic watches. In addition, there's an ISO standard for watches for diving: number 6425. We required an in-depth view it in the following paragraphs. Our test watch meets this ISO standard. Many so-known as watches for diving don't.
The Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver’s Look
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| Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch Review |
 |
| Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch Review |
The solid caseback takes place in position with eight small screws. As we’ll discuss below, to individuals knowledgable, the straightforward “diver’s watch” inscription speaks volumes. The situation is capped by a watch-catching, compliment-inducing bezel. It’s black ADLC (amorphous gemstone-like carbon) over steel or rose gold, with respect to the model. The deep gloss provides the see a top-quality look. The advantage from the bezel is extremely polished, and crenelated for improved grip. The unidirectional bezel adjusts in 30-second increments (120 clicks per rotation).
A rather domed azure very without any nonreflective coating protects a dial carried out in the Calibre de Cartier style. An oversize “XII” dominates, and does nearly as much to recognize the maker because the brand directly beneath it. The “California” style carries over, with Roman numerals on the top and broad stick markers below. The outer area of the dial, underneath the Romans, is snailed. The Roman “X” incorporates Cartier’s “secret signature” anti-counterfeiting feature: the Cartier name in microprint within the numeral’s crosspiece.
The Dial
When viewing two-digit dates within the curved aperture, it made an appearance to the eyes the triangular indicator protruded slightly in to the left digit, although the date remains legible. The sword-formed hands are members of the Calibre de Cartier aesthetic, plus they function very well, though some might regard them as too dainty for any dive watch. At nighttime, the 3 hands glow, along with the little-seconds chapter ring. The little, square dots marking the hrs will also be given Super-LumiNova, although the oversize “XII” may be the sole radiant Roman. Around the bezel, just the inverted triangular glows, therefore the other bezel markings aren't visible at nighttime. Within our test, the Super-LumiNova glowed brightly for around 1 hour. After two hrs, the luminous output had declined to the stage it had become visible simply to eyes adjusted towards the dark. Although the luminous output delivered rapidly, luminous elements continued to be legible in excess of 18 hrs. Should you look at your watch in the center of the night time, you'll be able to see it.
The Strap
The strap is soft rubber, and also at 120 mm by 74 mm, it'll fit more than a wetsuit only when your wrists are small. The strap is 23.5 mm wide in the lugs, restricting precise-fitting aftermarket options. The pin buckle is solid and engaging. Her same fine brushed finish because the situation, using the Cartier name engraved around the frame.
The Movement
 |
| Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch Review |
A bidirectional rotor installed on ceramic bearings winds the mainsprings. The bearings need no lube while increasing durability. Cartier utilizes a V-formed pawl instead of a typical reverser to improve winding efficiency and improve shock resistance. The rotor and automatic winding bridge are carried out with Geneva stripes, as the mainplate wears perlage, or circular graining. The graceful Glucydur balance wheel, flat Nivarox balance spring, and Etachron fine adjustment system regulate the discharge of one's.
The Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver’s Test Performance
Given Cartier’s goal for that twin mainspring barrels, we tested the Calibre Diver around the Witschi machine at full wind and again after 24 hrs, or midway with the power reserve. Our test watch seems to possess been controlled to operate consistently fast. Fully wound, the Calibre Diver averaged 7.1 seconds each day in six positions, with every position in positive territory. After 24 hrs, that figure elevated to 9.2 seconds. The finest deviation of rate at full wind was 5.1 seconds ( 4.8 seconds crown left and 9.9 seconds dial lower). After 24 hrs, that figure improved to 4.9 seconds ( 7.5 seconds crown up, 12.4 seconds crown lower). The Calibre Diver performed far better in tangible existence, running 2 seconds over 24 hrs around the wrist. The entire timing results come in the Specs box. The majority of our tests finish at this time, but because noted, our test watch meets the ISO-6425 needs, and since many watches for diving don't, we’ll discuss what which means.
The Tests at Cartier
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| Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch Review |
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